Overall Impression
Tucked between Azerbaijan to the east, Turkey to the west, Russia and Georgia to the north, and Iran to the south lies the small, mountainous country of Armenia.
A peculiar country with a fascinating history and a strong will to survive against all odds. Neither Turkey nor Azerbaijan holds Armenia in high regard—Azerbaijan, in particular, has been locked in a violent conflict with Armenia for decades over the Nagorno-Karabakh region. Meanwhile, the issue to the west stems from Turkey’s refusal to recognize the Armenian Genocide.
With hermetically sealed borders on both sides, Armenia is highly dependent on Iran and Russia as allies and energy suppliers, as well as maintaining good relations with the rest of the world. Its border with Georgia provides the only overland access for two Western travelers like us. We spent a significant amount of time in Georgia but set aside five days to visit Armenia—a decision we are incredibly happy with, as it turned out to be a highly positive and distinctly different experience from where we had just been.
We knew little about Armenia beforehand and were quite surprised to discover a country seemingly experiencing economic growth, with a capital city that practically radiates prosperity and order.
There is a clear difference, not just in the appearance of the two peoples, but also in their capitals. To us, Armenians seem more well-dressed and well-groomed, with better-maintained sidewalks and buildings, giving an overall impression that is distinctly different—more Western or North American, if you will. A bit like Israel in the Middle East.
Interestingly, more Armenians live abroad than in their homeland, partly due to the refugee crisis following the Genocide and partly because of Armenia’s long-standing ties to the Soviet Union. More than 10 million Armenians reside in over 100 countries, with the largest communities found in Russia and the United States.
Despite this, the Armenian people seem unique—determined, strong, energetic, and hardworking, if one can generalize in such a way. They also uphold traditional cultural norms.
At a cocktail bar, we struck up a conversation with three young Armenians who were deeply proud of their country but had differing views on what it was like to live there. One had lived in Armenia for 13 years after fleeing Syria as a child with his family and was more than satisfied. Another longed to escape the rigid cultural expectations—especially for women—and felt that Armenia was too influenced by its Muslim neighbors. (It’s worth noting here that Armenia is nearly 100% Christian, and we saw no visible signs of Muslim influence during our visit.)
The third, a man, was quieter but seemed happy and content. He owned the cocktail bar while also pursuing his studies.
How We Traveled
There are several ways to travel between Tbilisi and Yerevan, but after researching and taking advice from others (including Google), we opted for this: a five-hour ride in a minibus.
You book your seat online, then simply show up—the exact location is stated on the ticket, so you can easily pin it on Google Maps. The cost was around 45 Lari (approximately 15 USD) per person. At the time, we were staying in an Airbnb in Tbilisi, which we kept as our base since you can’t bring much luggage on the minibus. If you need to transport larger bags, the train is a better option, though it’s a slow overnight journey with lengthy border checks.
You’ll need steady nerves for the ride—our driver frequently watched videos when he got bored, and reckless overtaking was constant. But that’s just how it is in the Caucasus. If you can’t handle it or are prone to motion sickness, the train is the better choice.
The border crossing itself is smooth and quick. First, you step out to show your passport when exiting Georgia, then once more while carrying your luggage through X-ray scanning when entering Armenia. The process is the same on the way back. With 11 passengers, it took no more than 15 minutes each way. No visa is required for short stays if you’re from Denmark.
Since we only had a handful of days and it was winter, we focused solely on the capital, Yerevan. However, the journey there took us through breathtaking landscapes, making it clear that Armenia offers many more scenic and nature-filled experiences beyond the capital. We certainly wouldn’t rule out a return visit to explore the country’s numerous hiking trails.
We highly recommend learning a bit about Armenia’s dramatic history—not just the genocide but also other turbulent periods, including devastating earthquakes and even assassinations in parliament.
Armenian cuisine in many ways resembles that of its neighboring countries, featuring plenty of lamb, rice, dried fruits, and fresh herbs. Lavash (thin flatbread) and dolma (grape leaves stuffed with minced meat and rice) are also staples, just as they are in Georgia, Turkey, and Azerbaijan. The cuisine is not known for strong or intense flavors but rather for its emphasis on fresh, high-quality ingredients.
Yerevan’s restaurant scene is relatively large and quite international, with plenty of places serving excellent local food.
Read more under “The Capital, Yerevan.”
Where We Stayed
• JR’s House, 4/1 James Bryce St.
A great and affordable hostel—we had a private room with a decent bathroom and toilet. Breakfast was included (fairly okay).
The only downside is that it’s about a 20-minute walk from the city center.
The Pink City—this is how Yerevan, home to just over 1 million people, is often described, and it quickly becomes clear why. The city is primarily built with pink tuff stone, a volcanic rock that gives the buildings their unique rosy hue. Unlike many other former Soviet cities, Yerevan is not dominated by the typical, monotonous Soviet-era apartment blocks.
In fact, it was the Soviets who laid the foundation for the city’s modern architectural style, following a master plandesigned as early as the 1920s. This planned approach to urban development might be one of the reasons why Yerevan does not appear gray, worn-down, or depressing—but instead pink, well-maintained, and vibrant.
Getting Around
• Walking – The best option if you want to explore the city and get a sense of direction. Most key sights are within walking distance in the central area.
• Yandex Go – As of 2024, Uber and Bolt do not operate in Yerevan, but Yandex Go is a cheap and convenient alternative. You’ll need to download the app and register—we also recommend linking a credit card for pre-paid rides, making the process smoother.
• Public Transport – We never got around to testing it, but Yerevan has both buses and a metro system, and you can buy a travel card for access to all public transport options.
Yerevan is not just the capital of its one million inhabitants and the three million citizens of Armenia, but also of the larger Armenian diaspora, which is more than three times the size of the country’s population. This international presence is evident throughout the city. It feels lively at all hours, and in our eyes, it has a distinctly Western atmosphere.
Nestled beautifully among surrounding mountains, Yerevan’s scenic location is somewhat disrupted by heavy traffic. Bicycles are nearly nonexistent—except for Wolt delivery riders—and the city’s major roads are constantly congestedwith honking cars and thick exhaust fumes, which leave a noticeable scratch in the throat.
That being said, you quickly learn to live with it, because Yerevan is surprisingly stylish and enjoyable from a Western perspective. The city offers a vast selection of food and drinks, endless shopping options, and plenty of nightlife spots.
However, while Yerevan excels in appearance and energy, it lacks diversity. The city is very polished and feels somewhat uniform—so much so that after a couple of days of wandering, it starts to feel a bit repetitive.
Still, Yerevan is absolutely worth spending two to three days exploring. One piece of advice: avoid visiting in summer—it’s said to be extremely hot, effectively killing daytime activity in the city.
To keep things fair, we only name the places we had positive experiences at and avoid calling out any bad ones. Here are some of the spots we personally visited and enjoyed:
Overall, Yerevan offers a diverse food scene with everything from authentic Armenian cuisine to modern international dining. Whether you’re looking for a traditional meal, a cozy café, or a vibrant bar, there’s plenty to choose from!
Armenia has its own unique alphabet.
Armenia is home to the world’s first church and was the first country in the world to adopt Christianity as a state religion.
Not only that, but Armenia was also the first country to produce wine. Additionally, the world’s oldest known shoe was discovered here.
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Just like in Turkey and Georgia, punching bag machines are set up in an astonishing number of places.
This heading covers things, experiences, and observations that have been useful, fun, embarrassing, or something else entirely. It can also include statements or claims that may not necessarily be fact-checked.
We thought we should be cultural and bought tickets for a musical performance of The Nutcracker at the Aram Khachaturian Concert Hall—featuring “new 3D animations,” as advertised.
The music was fine, but the animations were embarrassingly bad—poorly made, lacking any storyline or logic. Many children in the audience were clearly bored, leading to a lot of noise and distractions.
On top of that, most people arrived late (perhaps a cultural thing?), further disrupting the performance. In the end, we left before it was over—a shame for the National Symphony Orchestra, who actually performed well.
The capital, Yerevan, is full of Instagram-friendly spots, both indoors and outdoors. The city is packed with Instagrammers, spending their days posing and taking photos in front of everything imaginable.
Especially around Christmas, when the city is festively decorated, the holiday atmosphere makes it even more photogenic.
It’s all about sharing our attempt to understand the world by experiencing it with our own eyes. Here and on multiple platforms, we talk about our experiences—the good and the bad—and we have an opinion on most things, which we are more than happy to share.
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