Visited in 2025

Budapest

1. Overall Impression

Budapest is a city with a rare balance between grandeur and informality.
The Danube runs through the city, dividing it into Buda, with its hills, castles and viewpoints, and Pest, which is flatter, livelier and full of cafés, bars and broad boulevards.
The bridges do more than simply connect the city – they also offer some of its most beautiful views, especially as the light fades at the end of the day.

The city is rich in history – including the darker chapters – and carries it visibly, yet with a relatively light touch, woven into modern urban life.

Imposing buildings stand side by side with worn façades, creative courtyards and small places where time seems to slow down a little. The thermal baths are a particularly distinctive part of city life – a place where locals and visitors meet in warm water and steam, whatever the season.
At the same time, Budapest is known for its relaxed atmosphere, good food, reasonable prices and an ability to feel both elegant and down to earth.

In short, Budapest is a city you fall in love with a little more each day – and one that makes you want to stay longer than planned.

How we travelled 

We travel by train and public transport whenever it is possible and practical.
Using an Interrail Global Pass the journey began in Aarhus, Denmark, through Central and Eastern Europe, and ended in Kars, Turkey before moving on in a different way.

Interrail is not only for young people, but for all ages, and it can clearly be recommended. It gives you the freedom of changing your plans if needed and not having to plan every little detail in advance.
Setting it up is a bit cumbersome, but once everything is in place, it is very easy to use.
You pay based on how many travel days you expect to need. We purchased an Interrail pass with four travel days to be used within a maximum period of one month.
One travel day equals as many train journeys as you like—but be aware that if a journey passes midnight, it counts as an extra day.

After setting it up, you download the Rail Planner app, log in, and from there you can search for routes and departure times and add them to your trip. It is also your ticket to show.

After setting it up, you download the Rail Planner app, log in, and from there you can search for routes and departure times and add them to your trip. It is also your ticket to show.

Facts

Population: 1,8 million in the city proper – 3,3 million in the metropolitan area.

2. What to see

Thermal Baths

Thermal baths are an integral part of Budapest’s culture and function as wellness spaces, everyday rituals and social meeting places. Around 10–15 of them are spread across the city. Budapest sits on a network of hot springs, which means that warm, mineral-rich water has been used here for centuries. Trying a thermal bath is a must – afterwards, you can decide for yourself whether you love it or not. Read about our experience here:
https://justtravellers.com/index.php/2025/03/05/men-in-small-loincloths-or-a-thorough-scrubbing-in-a-bathhouse/

The Jewish Ghetto

Towards the end of the war, this ghetto was established on just 0.25 km², and around 70,000 Jews were forced into this very small area.
The history can both be felt and seen in the streets – many buildings still bear bullet holes from the liberation.
Today, the neighbourhood is a very different environment, filled with bars, restaurants and nightlife.
Many of these places are known as ruin bars, as they are set up in “ruins” and have become attractions. The area is therefore marked by a strong sense of duality: everyday life, culture and entertainment exist side by side with the memory of a dark past.
The wall that once surrounded the ghetto is gone today – only a small section remains – but its course is marked by memorials in the street.

Memorials

memorials marking places where Jews were taken from their homes and lives and sent to the ghetto or to concentration camps.
Also visit Shoes on the Danube Bank, a powerful memorial to the Jews who were ordered to remove their shoes before being shot and falling into the river.

Dohány Street Synagogue

The largest synagogue in Europe. A remarkable building that functions both as an active synagogue and as a museum and concert venue. In the courtyard there is a memorial to the victims of the Holocaust, as well as a mass grave from the ghetto period.

The Danube

Explore both sides of the river. It is ideal for long walks, with beautiful buildings and landmarks along the way – including the impressive Parliament building.

The City Centre

Wander along the grand boulevards, through the parks, and into cafés and markets, where the city truly comes to life.

Where We Stayed

We found a fairly large apartment on Airbnb in the former Jewish ghetto. The apartment itself was comfortable, but it was difficult to fall asleep with the thought of the fates of those who, during the war, were crammed into a relatively few square metres where we, two people, were now stretching out.
At the same time, it was a powerful experience – imagining the course of history, with bullet holes in the buildings opposite as visible proof.

3. Gastronomy

Hungarian cuisine is hearty, full of flavour and built around a few bold, defining ingredients. Paprika plays a starring role, and classics such as goulash and chicken paprikás are rich stews, often served with potatoes.
More informal is lángos – fried dough topped with garlic, cheese and sour cream.
And chimney cakes, flavoured for example with cinnamon or vanilla, are available everywhere. 

Budapest offers plenty of places serving local food (be careful – there are also many tourist traps), but it is also a city with a strong international food scene.
It has an abundance of casual eateries where socialising is a key part of the experience, while also offering several fine dining restaurants.

One thing worth noting is the many hummus bars, which have become part of everyday life in the city. Hummus, falafel and pita bread represent a trend that attracts locals, students, tourists and people on the move alike.

3.a. Where we wined and dined

To avoid harming or calling out anyone, we only speak in general terms about our bad experiences. However, we do name and grade the better places—but only those we’ve personally visited.

🚂 Definitely worth a visit
🚂 🚂 Really good
🚂 🚂 🚂 One of our favorites
🚂 🚂 🚂 🚂 Above and beyond
🚂 🚂 🚂 🚂 🚂 Truly exceptional

Retek Bisztró
🚂 🚂 🚂

Nádor u. 5

Classic Hungarian dishes on the menu. A lovely place – remember to book a table.

Hummusbar
🚂 🚂

Október 6. u. 19
A
typical hummus bar with good food at reasonable prices. Quick, easy and tasty. 


ESCA
🚂🚂 🚂

Dohány u. 29

Social dining. Small, delicious dishes and good wine.

Wine Not?
🚂 🚂 🚂

Nádor u. 20
A very cosy wine bar, including natural wines.
BAR

4. Random

This section covers things, experiences, lessons, and moments that were either useful, funny, awkward – or just a bit random.
It also includes thoughts, impressions, or casual observations that may not necessarily be fact-checked but felt true to us in the moment.

* President Viktor Orbán and his government have initiated and carried out a number of developments and renovations with a clear nationalist focus, including statues, monuments and memorials. Rather than presenting a neutral and factual perspective, the approach is distinctly political.

* The city originally consisted of two (in fact three) separate towns: Buda, Pest and Óbuda, which were only united in 1873.

* You can sit in outdoor hot water in the middle of winter while snow falls around you.

* Some pensioners meet in the thermal baths to play chess in the water for hours at a time.

* Many apartments have hidden doors or bricked-up openings that date back to times of war or escape.