Visited in November/December 2024

Istanbul

1. Overall

Welcome to the world’s 15th largest city – a massive place that is almost impossible to grasp, which goes without saying.

That’s why it’s worth doing at least some research on the different districts beforehand and maybe choosing a few to explore rather than trying to see it all – which is simply impossible.

The city is split in half by the Bosporus Strait, with the western part located on the European continent and the eastern part on the Asian side.

Istanbul is furthermore divided into several major areas, and based on what we had read, we rented an Airbnb in the Beyoğlu district on the western shore – and luckily, we chose right. While parts of it are touristy, behind the main streets and attractions, we found charming little neighborhoods full of local life and decent places to eat and drink. Together with the Karaköy district, it’s a bit like Istanbul’s version of a hipster area. And let’s be honest – we’ve realized that we might just be hipsters ourselves.

Facts

world's 15th largest city

Now, don’t assume that the western shore feels like Western Europe and the eastern shore like Asia – that couldn’t be further from the truth. It’s all very Turkish, but the western side has far more tourists, which means it also has a more Western feel, with alcohol, coffee shops, and shopping.
The Sultanahmet district, in particular, is packed with tourists since many of the major attractions are here. A good tip if you want to visit them: Get in and out quickly – unless you love overpriced, mediocre food and persistent street vendors trying to lure you into their “special” restaurant.

Take a ferry across the strait, and on the other side, you’ll find the Kadıköy district. Here, you’ll discover an incredible selection of Turkish restaurants and lively local street life – completely different from the other side of the water.

Transport in Istanbul – buy an Istanbulkart:

Istanbul has an excellent public transportation system, and you can buy an Istanbulkart, which is valid for almost all modes of transport – including ferries and trams. It can be purchased from a vending machine.
We bought ours at the Halkali train station, where we arrived. From there, we could travel easily with Marmaray and buses to Beyoğlu, where we were staying.
One card is enough, as it can be used by multiple people. You can top it up at most stations.

Use the ferries when you need to cross the Bosporus Strait – it’s convenient and a fun experience.

Marmaray is a train connection similar to an S-train/metro that runs throughout the southern part of Istanbul, linking the two continents, from the far west to the far east.

Our experience is that Istanbul is not a city packed with must-see attractions. The ones that do exist can be covered relatively quickly. To us, the real highlight is simply walking, driving, sailing, and exploring local life in some of the charming little neighborhoods scattered around the city.

That being said, there are a few things that might be worth seeking out:

2. Things we did or saw

This isn’t a list of everything you can do in Instanbul and you won’t necessarily find all the major tourist attractions here. It’s rather a selection of places we’ve visited and personally recommend and rate. 

🚂 Definitely worth a visit
🚂 🚂 Really good
🚂 🚂 🚂 One of our favorites
🚂 🚂 🚂 🚂 Above and beyond
🚂 🚂 🚂 🚂 🚂 Truly exceptional

The Blue Mosque
🚂 🚂 🚂

An incredible architectural masterpiece with six minarets and a stunningly beautiful interior.

Hagia Sophia
🚂 🚂

An equally impressive mosque and even older.

Galataport Sahil Promenade
🚂 🚂

Even though it's a bit touristy, take a walk here (you’ll need to go through a security check) and take a break while gazing out over the water. It’s fascinating to watch the traffic, with everything from supertankers loaded with containers to tourist boats, police boats, and fishing vessels crossing paths. It seems chaotic, but there’s apparently a system to it.

3. Where we wined and/or dined

To avoid harming or calling out anyone, we only speak in general terms about our bad experiences. However, we do name and grade the better places—but only those we’ve personally visited.

❤️ Definitely worth a visit
❤️❤️ Really good
❤️❤️❤️ One of our favorites
❤️❤️❤️❤️ Above and beyond
❤️❤️❤️❤️❤️ Truly exceptional

Karaköy Lokantası
❤️

Kemankeş Mahallesi, Kemankeş Cd. No:57
Worth a visit, but definitely a place aimed at tourists with money to spend. Almost exclusively foreigners at the tables. The service is good, they have a wide selection of mezes and a decent lamb crown.

Çiya Sofrası
❤️❤️

Caferağa, Güneşli Bahçe, Kadıköy
Local through and through. The sweetest owner, who happily explains the concept of Anatolian specialties. Very simple dishes and delicious, very sweet desserts.

1932 Cihangir Doyum Mantı
❤️❤️❤️

Firuzağa, Firuzağa Cami Sk., Beyoğlu
Fantastic service – they go out of their way to find you a table at this small, popular spot. As down-to-earth as it gets while still serving truly local and well-prepared small dishes.

Well Breakfast & Coffee
❤️❤️

Katip Mustafa Çelebi, Maç Çk Sk No: 6, Beyoğlu
Friendly owners, decent breakfast.

Geyik
❤️❤️❤️

Cihangir, Akarsu Ykş. Sok. No:22, Beyoğlu
Cozy and small. Excellent whisky sour.